We’ve already provided you with our recommendations for the top surfing movies, but what if you’re more of the “chill on the beach between sets with a good book” kind of dude? We’ve got you covered on that front, too. Here are some of the top recommended books about surfing.
By William Finnegan
One of the best memoirs about surfing ever written, Barbarian Days follows the very interesting life of William Finnegan. Finnegan was a reporter as well as a devoted surfer, so you get more than just surf anecdotes in this book. Plus, unlike many other surfing memoirs, the “cheese” factor is pretty low with this one.
In Search of Captain Zero
By Allan C. Weisbecker
If you prefer a little more action in your reading, look no further than Allan C. Weisbecker’s In Search of Captain Zero. Despite being a memoir, it reads like an action novel. It’s full of drug running, outlaws and plenty of surfing, all of which takes place during an epic road trip from the United States through Central America.
The History of Surfing
By Matt Warshaw
This one is probably better suited for your coffee table than your beach bag. At 500 pages, Matt Warshaw’s The History of Surfing is one of the best comprehensive collections on the history of the sport ever written. Even non-surfers will appreciate this one.
Tapping the Source
By Kem Nunn
If fiction is more your cup of tea, this is a must-have! Serving as the inspiration for the film Point Break, Kem Nunn’s Tapping the Source follows a teen as he searches for his missing sister in Huntington Beach. This one is so good that you might just elect to skip a few waves in favor of staying on the beach to get in a few more pages—well, maybe…
All for a Few Perfect Waves
By David Rensin
Biographies normally aren’t what most of us consider to be “page-turners,” but that’s not the case with David Rensin’s All for a Few Perfect Waves. It covers the life story of Miki “Da Cat” Dora and all of his exploits, including hanging with celebrities and his stint in a California jail with another inmate you may have heard of—Charles Manson.